Varieties chosen
for this climate.
Japanese classics alongside the heirloom, non-GMO and heat-tolerant varieties defining 2026 — every one of them picked because it crops reliably through an Oita summer, not because it looks good in a catalogue.
🌾 Non-GMO & heirloom
Clearly labelled. Most of our range is open-pollinated, so you can save seed and grow the same thing next year.
🌡️ Heat-holding
The clearest 2026 shift is towards varieties that keep producing through heat instead of peaking once and fading.
📅 Sown to season
Every packet carries an Oita-specific sowing window, not generic national advice.
🐝 Pollinator-aware
Companion flowers alongside the vegetables. Marigold, nasturtium and cosmos do real work in a food garden.
30 varieties
Tap Growing details on any packet for the sowing window, days to harvest, position and expected yield.
What to sow, and when
Timings for coastal Oita. Inland Yufu runs roughly two weeks later in spring and two weeks earlier in autumn.
| Month | Sow under cover | Sow direct | Plant out |
|---|---|---|---|
| January | Strawberry | — | Bare-root fruit trees |
| February | Tomato, aubergine, pepper, shishito | Snap pea | Saplings, hedging |
| March | Basil, marigold, zinnia | Carrot, spinach, negi, coriander | Hardy herbs |
| April | Cucumber, kabocha, okra | Edamame, sweet corn, sunflower, cosmos | Tomato (late April) |
| May | — | Okra, kabocha, nasturtium, shiso | Aubergine, pepper, cucumber |
| June | — | Edamame (late), sweet corn (succession) | Last summer crops |
| July | Autumn brassicas | Carrot (late July) | — |
| August | Hakusai, cabbage, broccoli | Daikon, carrot, komatsuna | Autumn brassicas (late Aug) |
| September | — | Spinach, mizuna, komatsuna, coriander, negi | Hakusai, cabbage |
| October | — | Daikon (early), snap pea, spinach | Trees, shrubs, perennials |
| November | — | Snap pea, broad bean, winter spinach | Trees, shrubs, hedging |
| December | — | — | Dormant trees; plan on paper |
Keep this page bookmarked — the calendar reflects what we are actually sowing at Uchikamado.
Trees that suit an Oita garden
Grafted and container-grown, hardened off outdoors before they leave us. Plant a sapling in autumn and it gets a full season of root growth before its first summer — which is the single biggest factor in whether it survives.
How to plant a sapling so it lives
Dig wide, not deep
Three times the width of the root ball, and no deeper than it. A deep hole settles, and the tree sinks with it.
Find the root flare
Scrape soil off the top of the root ball until the trunk visibly widens. That point sits at or just above finished grade.
Tease the roots out
Circling roots will strangle the tree in five years. Loosen the outer roots and spread them outward into the hole.
Backfill with native soil
Do not fill with rich compost — the roots will refuse to leave the comfortable pocket. Native soil, firmed gently, no fertiliser.
Mulch, but not against the trunk
Five to seven centimetres of mulch in a wide ring, kept 10 cm clear of the trunk. Mulch piled against bark invites rot and borers.
Water deeply, then leave it
A full slow soak at planting, then deeply once a week for the first summer. Little and often trains roots to stay shallow.
One call, and a bit of advice with it
Tell us the varieties and roughly where they are going. We will confirm stock and total, flag anything that will not work in your aspect, and suggest what to pair it with.
- Seed packets: flat ¥400 delivery, free over ¥3,000
- Saplings: ¥1,200 per delivery within Beppu / Oita City
- Collection free from the garden on Sunday sessions
- Bulk and school orders quoted separately
Reserve by message
List what you want and we will call you back to confirm.
Want us to plant it for you?
Our area-based garden plans include a named sapling package, planted and mulched, with follow-up visits inside the first 90 days.